Best Hangboard Workout for Beginners – Get Strong Grip, No Injury

The aspirant or someone planning to start climbing may not know what a hangboard is, let alone be aware of the hangboard workout for beginners. When you visit a climbing gym, you will come across an array of strange edges and holes on that facility’s (bouldering) walls. For beginners, this can be not very comforting. In fact, you might wonder about their purpose and why they were erected there in the first place. Well, to start with, these are known as hangboards.

As an aspirant rock climber, you will need to boost the overall strength of your holds and grips. It is imperative to note that the hangboard is known to have a plethora of holds in it so that different climbers can practice different grips to strengthen their arms, fingers and wrists. Here, we shall take an in-depth look at what hangboard workout is, how many of them to master over, and expert tips on practising them without inviting any injury alongside any other related idea.

What is Hangboard Workout or Training and Why It is important?

Whether you are a novice or a pro in rock climbing, you need to improve your grip strength and engage in some climbing cross-training practices. A 5 minute hangboard workout training or a one for 10 minutes regularly should do the needful. The full picture is, hanging from a hangboard with fingers single-handed or both hands together when retracting shoulders.

And as these workouts are the same for any level climbers, hangboard workout intermediate and beginner are not different. Even amazing is, with a hangboard at your disposal, you can turn them into your hangboard training at home when and if climbing gym is not an option to attend.

For instance, if you are a seasoned rock climber, you will be able to overcome the plateau stage of your rock climbing experience and be able to squeeze more energy from your fingers, wrist and arms.

Consequently, the productivity of these parts will increase tremendously and thus make your climbing easier than ever. On the other hand, if you are a starter, your fingers and arms will strengthen gradually and thus enable you to manoeuvre different routes easily. You need to have a proper hangboard training plan, and you will be good to go. Here are a few of the multiple benefits of engaging in hangboard workouts.

  • They help to increase the strength of your grip. From the illustration mentioned above, it is no secret that this exercise will increase your grip strength and thus enable you to become a better rock climber.
  • They improve your endurance levels. Besides enabling you to boost your grip strength, these exercises help to increase your endurance or resistance with long hangs and holds. Consequently, you will be able to hang on different holds for longer without getting fatigued.
  • These workouts increase the strength of your upper body. This can be attributed to the fact that these exercises engage the upper body more than the lower body muscles. As a result, vital parts such as your chest, back and shoulders will be strengthened and thus enable you to scale different rock surfaces seamlessly.

Hangboard workout for beginners: 5 Efficient Hangboardings

Since you already know the various benefits of hangboard activities, the time is ripe for you to know the crucial workouts to incorporate in your hangboard workout plan. Thus, you can be equipped with the max grip and finger strength while climbing. But ensure you get the best hangboard for beginners to have effective and happy cross-climbinng training sessions:

Best hangboard for beginners

1. 10-second hangs

This is the first exercise that should top the list of your hangboard workout plan. To start with, ensure that you have a stopwatch and at the beginning of the first minute, try to hang for about 10 seconds in a half crimp position.

Thereafter, rest for 50 seconds and then hang again for 10 seconds at the beginning of the second minute. For optimal results, try to do 3 hangs and then rest for about 3 minutes. After that, repeat the same process twice. In total, ensure that you do 3 sets and you will be good to go.

2. 15-Second Hang

Just as the title suggests, this workout takes 15 seconds of your time. Here, you should try to hang on a hangboard for 15 seconds and then rest for 45 minutes. For better results, ensure that you repeat this exercise 5 times and the rest for 3 minutes between the sets. You can even repeat this work out 6 times while resting 3 seconds in between each set.

3. Alternating Grips

Here, you should use your hand to grip the largest jug and then hang on it for 7 seconds and the rest for about 5 seconds. To get the results, ensure that you repeat the workout 6 times. As the name suggests, ensure that you alternate the grip and engage the largest finger pocket. Try to hang for about 7 seconds and then rest for 5 seconds. Keep alternating the fingers gripping the largest jug and see how it goes. Ensure that you repeat this exercise at least 5 times, and rest for 3 minutes in between.

4. Pull-ups

Open your hand and then grip or hold onto the largest jug when performing this workout. Try to do 5 pull-ups, as you rest for 1 minute between each pull-up. Ensure that you repeat this workout for 5 sets and then rest 3 minutes in between. Once you get used to this workout, you can alternate your grip and engage the largest finger.

5. 3-Finger Hangs

Unlike the other workouts, this one is ideal for advanced beginners. However, beginners can still engage in it and see how it goes. Here, you will use 3 fingers to hang the largest jug on the hangboard.

During this workout, you will first engage the index, middle, and ring finger. Thereafter, move on to the pinky, middle and ring finger. Using these fingers, try to hang for 7 seconds and then rest for about 5 seconds. Try to repeat this exercise 6 times and you will bring you the coveted result over time.

Expert Tips and Tricks to Get Max from Hangboarding

Although hangboard workouts can yield the much-needed fruits, beginners are vulnerable to finger, wrist or tendon injuries. To keep such problems at bay, you need to know a number of safety tips and tricks so that you can remain safe during the entire hangboard workout session. Beginner hangboard workout Reddit and a hangboard workout app can be of further help. However, these tips can save your time and labor by addressing all your queries complimentary to the mentioned hangboarding practices:

beginner hangboard workout

  1. Pre-hangboarding Warm-up

Most beginners are always curious to start hangboard workouts immediately they arrive at the climbing gym. Although this might seem to be a lucrative idea, you are likely to get injured or hurt as your body might not be used to such tasking exercises.

Here, you can start by performing some jump rope exercises. Apart from this, try to do some regular pull-ups using the pull-up bar. You can also try to stretch your forearms and so forth. Engaging in any of these cardio activities will increase your heart rate and thus get your body ready for the hangboard exercises.

  1. Be Moderate

Since the hangboarding can string your hands and fingers, you need to go slow at first. More important is, listening to your body so as to establish whether you are pushing yourself beyond the limits or not. If you are a beginner, you can try to support your weight using a pulley system or a step stool before you put your entire weight on your fingers.

  1. Consider Using a Matching Pair of Grips

For your body to remain balanced, consider using a matching pair of grips. For instance, if you are using the index finger and the middle finger to hang on a hangboard, ensure that both fingers are engaged on both hands. This will not only make you remain balanced but also reduce instances of getting injured.

  1. Ensure Engaged Shoulders During Dead Hangs

When performing a dead hang, you must ensure that your shoulders are engaged. However, you can bend your elbows slightly. Besides this, ensure space between your ears and the shoulders and that your elbows are not locked at all.

  1. Consider Using Appropriate Handholds

Since you are a beginner, you need to acquaint yourself with the right grips as you perform your hangboard workout sessions. For optimal results, you should consider using an open handhold. By doing so, you will keep injuries at bay. Here, you will be holding the hangboard with your fingertips.

Overtime, you can consider using slopers, where you will use your palms to hold into the large shelf located at the top of the hangboard. Once you are done with this technique, you can venture into crimping, where you will open your hand and grip on the hangboard but will not engage the thumb at all.

Final Words

Rock climbing is a high-impact activity that makes you get injured if you are not careful. More importantly, you need to boost grip strength anytime you engage your fingers, wrist, and arms not only to hold onto the hangboard at the climbing gym, but you need a strong grip to deal with overhangs, and small hangs with ease.

That is where an in-depth guide on hangboard workout for beginners makes sure that you get climb-ready faster and easier. Thus, you will boost your grip strength and your overall endurance levels. Consequently, you will stay safe and enjoy your rock climbing sessions.

Afzall Rahman

Afzall Rahman is a college teacher by profession and is a rock-climbing enthusiast from his early childhood. So, anything on climbing keeps him glued to for hours - be it a movie on or related to climbing, book on or by climbers, article or podcast on climbing destinations, skills, gears, or the likes.

Recent Posts